The estate of the Di Maio family- for years under the able guidance of star consultant Riccardo Cotarella- is simply the only game in town in the tiny southern province of Molise. And Di Maio can always be counted on to turn out intense, value-packed wines from all the classic southern Italian red varieties…Aglianico being foremost among them. This 2017 Riserva is rounding into perfect drinkability, yet it’s priced reasonably enough for easy, generous service at barbecues and large gatherings.